Brian Without Borders

Staying away from Mexico forever is like giving up tacos 🌮. With Covid-19 cases decreasing in the US it opens up more international travel opportunities. On my previous winter travels to Mexico I tended to focus on visiting southern Mexico in the states of Chiapas and Oaxaca. This time I headed directly into the proverbial “lion’s den” in the capital of Mexico City and then on to Cabo San Lucas for the beginning of four weeks in Baja California. Ok, maybe it’s not the actual “lion’s den” since major tourist hot spots like Tulum, Cancun, and Playa del Carmen in the state of Quintana Roo are at risk of imminent lockdown due to rising cases but Mexico City and Cabo San Lucas are still higher than the rural areas per the Mexican Government’s official Covid website. And if anyone knows Corona best it is Mexico…ok, maybe that might be their Corona beer 🍺 😉 

Short Transit Visit in Mexico City

Luckily, I made a few connections during previous travels in Mexico and was able to stay with a local family in Mexico City (CDMX) for a few days and thus was able to see a side of the city that most touristic travelers don’t see up close. The city inhabitants wear masks everywhere indoors except while eating in restaurants, which are at 100% capacity. Outdoors over 90% of people wore masks as well.  

The food never ceases to amaze in Mexico and Mexico City is no different than in the southern states. I doubt I’ll ever get tired of real Mexican food….or as they call it “food”.  Yes, I love food!

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I was also introduced to something called “Pulque” which is an alcoholic beverage made from the fermented sap of the maquey (agave) plant. It is traditional in central Mexico, where it has been produced for millennia. In the pulqueria, a bar where they traditionally sell and drink pulque, they offer it to go only at this time at only 50 pesos ($2.50 USD) per 1 liter bottle. As a demonstration of Mexico’s focus on the environment (or possibly to reduce expenses) it is served in reused 1 liter water bottles. Mixed with your choice of about eight different fresh fruit juices it is very smooth and easy to drink. Just remember that if you don’t drink it all and decide to put the lid on the bottle that the fermentation process of the fruit and alcohol will continue causing the pressure inside the bottle to increase. Yup, that means that when you open the bottle the next time, whether it be an hour or a day later that you will likely get a face-full of liquid as if you had dropped Mentos into Coca Cola.

Domestic Flight CDMX to Los Cabos

The flight to Los Cabos, an area that consists of Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo, was my first light on regional Mexican low-fare air carrier Volaris and I have to say that it wasn’t bad at all. One of the first things you’ll quickly notice on any flight within Mexico is that unlike in the United States where passengers will immediately stand up and jockey for position clogging the aisles to get off the plane even though plane’s door hasn’t even been opened yet doesn’t happen in Mexico. Mexicans patiently wait in their seats until the rows in front of them disembark. It’s extremely orderly and helps restore faith that air passengers can actually act civilized…unlike recent events on US-based carriers.

Transportation from the airport to Cabo San Lucas by taxi will cost about 800 pesos ($40 USD). There is also a local air conditioned bus that picks up at the airport that’ll cost only 85 pesos ($4.25 USD) and brings you to downtown Cabo San Lucas. If your hotel is located prior to the downtown area you can simple disembark at an earlier stop.

Of course there is also a car rental desk if you think you’re up for the challenge of driving in Mexico. Actually, driving in Mexico isn’t too bad. Just watch out for unmarked speed bumps that are camouflaged by matching the road’s colour and anticipate drivers not using turn signals. Apparently there is a dire shortage of “turn signal fluid” in Mexico. 🤪

My primary resort hotel wasn’t available yet since I arrived a day early due to the available flight schedule. But that’s ok since there are other hotel options. I opted for an affordably off-the-beach smaller hotel that also offered long term rentals. Let’s face it, it was only $48 USD per night, which is low for Cabo San Lucas as other hotels can cost upwards of $1,700 USD per night at the Waldorf Astoria or Hacienda Beach Club & Residency. Surprisingly the Cabo Vista Hotel, despite not being on the beach, is a place I’d return to if cost was a factor. And as an added benefit, the tap water at the Cabo Vista Hotel is prefiltered so it is drinkable. This is important since none of us wants to have a Charlotte Poughkeepsie intestinal moment from the movie “Sex and the City”.

Currency Problems? Not Here!

It doesn’t take long to realise that Cabo San Lucas is very touristy as the vast majority of the locals speak English and prices are quoted in US dollars (USD) first. Heck, even when Mexicans from the mainland ask for prices they are given prices in USD. 

During the time spent here in Cabo San Lucas every ATM dispensed only US dollars except for only one with Mexican pesos.

In many other parts of Mexico purchasing items and getting change from larger denomination bills can be challenging to say the least. One time I bought a 50 peso ($2.50 USD) item with a 100 peso ($5 USD) bill and the vendor didn’t have change. Well, here in “Little America” that isn’t a problem. You can pay in USD or pesos will large or small bills and they’ll be able to make change.

English Newspapers

There are so many people from the United States that there is a newspaper called “Gringo Gazette” written in English that mostly focuses on events that expats & tourists would enjoy as well as “opportunities” for gringos to spend their money on leisure activities or for real estate transactions. Considering the booming real estate market this may be a good thing for those looking to invest.

A great local place in the center of town that has huge portions and and low prices is a small downtown hole-in-the-wall joint a few blocks north of the marina called “Rico Suave”. The tortas are so big they can easily be shared by two people. And if you need to detoxify with some actual healthy fruit smoothies after drinking too much tequila they have you covered too. My personal favourite is the pineapple and strawberry 😍

Playa Grande Resort

But, I’m here to visit the Playa Grande Resort in a change from my normal mode of travel and adventure as these accommodations are definitely high end. The front desk quoted the normal price at $345. But, since it’s an “interval ownership” property, a.k.a. time share, you can likely get a significant discount by attending one of their sales presentations.

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I opted to not purchase the resort’s $90 USD all-inclusive food package at the resort, partly because I wanted to explore food options outside the resort in order to more evenly support the local economy and also because I had heard numerous reports that the meals on the resort were mediocre. Plus, the resort’s online food menu was very Americanized in my opinion.

The views are definitely amazing, both of the Pacific Ocean, the resort itself, and even of the room.

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The entertainment at Playa Grande Resort isn’t too bad and tries to meet the expectations of the guests. The dancing below is an example of what is provided to guests who opt for the resort’s dinner buffet (or for those who just casually walk by the back patio to watch the dancing).

If you aren’t familiar with Mexican dancing then they also have TV theme-based audience participation shows featuring songs like the classic theme to the Adams Family that you may know a little better.

Covid-19 restrictions are technically in place while in the resort but they are treated more as suggestions. The only enforced requirement was using hand sanitizer when entering the main lobby through the front entrance. When entering from the side there is no hand sanitizer. About 50% of people wore masks in the main lobby and nobody, other than staff, wore masks around the rest of the pubic spaces within the resort.

All in all, the Playa Grande resort is a nice place to visit if your intention is to stay on the resort for the majority of your time in Cabo San Lucas with only venturing out occasionally to go on a tour or to visit the tourist establishments within a half mile walk of the resort within the tourist corridor. It’s a safe place and can give you a small taste of Mexico.

Like I said before, I planned to get outside the resort and see what else Cabo San Lucas has for those in town for a short period of time and still want to be within a relatively close proximity to the resort.

Local Restaurants

A highly recommended an always busy location for both tourists and locals is Tacos Guss. Yes, the prices are about three to four times what you’ll find in other parts of Mexico due to the touristic location but it’s still economical relative to the other options and the food is absolutely amazing. I highly recommend their enchiladas asada. 🤤

Sea Activities

The proximity to the ocean helps turn this desert into an oasis. In the marina you can see massive yachts and even sea life.

There are yachts so big they have actual helicopters on them! 🚁

You can even go on Stand Up Paddleboard (aka SUP) tours in the Sea of Cortez. Sorry but the Pacific Ocean side of the peninsula is way too dangerous thanks to huge waves and stronger winds.

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The boat captains will casually throw corn tortillas into the water to feed the local fish as entertainment for the tourists. But, while they may technically be Mexican fish that doesn’t make tortillas part of a healthy fish’s diet since corn contains little to no omega-3’s. When fish consume this they can accumulate higher levels of saturated fats and a higher omega-6 to omega-3 ratio which is highly undesirable. In other words, they become as unhealthy as many tourists.

El Arco (The Arch) and Playa de Los Amantes (Lovers Beach) are on adjacent sides of “Land’s End”, the name given to the southernmost point of Baja California. They are two of the main highlights here in Cabo San Lucas and they can be reached relatively inexpensively from the marina on a water taxi for $200 MXN pesos per person (about $10 USD). The boat captain will give you a short tour of the various rock formations at the southern point of Baja California and drop you off Playa de Los Amantes for up to 4 hours of swimming and snorkeling. The beach is on the Sea of Cortez (aka Gulf of California) side of the peninsula where the water is much more calm. But, you can easily walk over to Playa del Divorcio (Divorce Beach) on the Pacific Ocean side of the peninsula. Swimming is prohibited on the Pacif side though due to dangerous rip currents. If you want to save the $200 MXN peso you can technically climb up and over a few rocks from the west side of Playa Divorcio where the Solmar resort is located in order to reach the beach. However, you won’t get to see the arch or other beautiful rock formations since to view them properly you need to be in the ocean.

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There are a number of swimmable beaches that are free and easily accessible to the public as well…and they don’t involve boats or rock climbing to get to. The best of theses are El Medano Beach, located approximately two kilometres east of the marina, and Santa Maria Beach, located approximately 10 kilometres east of the marina. There is a “colectivo” (aka local Mexican bus) that has a pick up stop near the McDonalds and costs only 28 pesos ($1.40 USD) each way. They are beautiful both day and night…especially during a full moon for you are the romantic type 💕.

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Land Activities

There are your typical touristy restaurants and bars like Señor Frogs, Hard Rock Cafe, and Cabo Wabo Cantina if that is your cup of tea. But I preferred to see the more local establishments. Coincidentally, Cabo Wabo Cantina is owned by former Van Halen (aka Van Hagar) lead singer Sammy Hagar. Reportedly, a few days ago Sammy was actually there with John Travolta so if you want to see famous people this might be the place to go.

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Local bars have entertainment as well. An example is the open air Jungle Bar where there is live music and rock bands play all night long. Plus, they have a menu with food & drink. If I see you there 🎶 we can dance if we want to. We can leave your friends behind. ‘Cause your friends don’t dance and if they don’t dance well they’re no friends of mine. 🎶 Just admit it: you sang along to the classic Men Without Hats song The Safety Dance too 😜

There are also plenty of massage parlors with plenty of the same “well-endowed” women. If you walk by their store front it’s practically a given that they’ll say hello, in English of course, asking if you’d like a massage. They aren’t as aggressive as the “masseuses” in Bangkok but they definitely want your business.

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Another thing you’ll quickly notice is the high number of pharmacies in Cabo San Lucas. They look like normal pharmacies with standard over-the-counter (OTC) medicines and medical needs (e.g. Ace wraps for injured joints) but they also have OTC pharmaceuticals that would require a prescription in the USA and Europe (e.g. Viagra, Tramadol, Amoxicillin). What is more interesting in that a local Mexican told me that the pharmacies are one of the ways that the cartels launder money.

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There are also unusual combinations of both spas and sea life such as in the fish spas where you can get a fish pedicure. Its a somewhat weird feeling of having fish eat dead skin off your feet.

Accidents Happen Everywhere

The adventures here in Cabo San Lucas were almost derailed on my first full day at Playa Grande Resort when I broke my pinky toe after stubbing it on a very large rock on the beach. Luckily, when it came to cancelling fun “this little piggy had none” because the little toe doesn’t do much anyway. 😂 Oh, the blackened nails on my 2nd and 3rd toes are from a recent 800-mile backpacking trip.

Conclusion

Let’s be honest: Cabo isn’t really anything close to authentic Mexico but rather a “Little America”. If that’s what you’re looking for then great! The ATMs dispense USD, the hotel water is potable, internet is strong and reliable, nearly everyone speaks English, there are things to do that you can’t do at home, it’s still cheaper than many other US travel destination (e.g. Hawaii & Disney), and there’s even a local English newspaper. There is no shame in coming here as there are plenty of Americans who aren’t ready yet for the full international “Mexican Experience”. They appreciate the comforts of home while still getting away from the USA. Maybe their employers have a tendency to constantly call at dinner time but are far less likely to call and pay internationally phone rates. Whatever your reason for coming to Cabo San Lucas, it isn’t a bad place to visit but it’s definitely “Mexico Light” for gringos who aren’t ready for the full Mexican experience that can me found in other Mexican states like Oaxaca, Chiapas, Jalisco, or Michoacán. 

PS

Of course you do have the option of coming all the way to Cabo San Lucas just to drink American beer…but Mexican beers like Dos Equis, Pacifico, Modelo, Victoria, Tecate, & Corona are very good options too.